One Foot After the Other (Etching Available)
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July 27, 2026
Maria seemed to appear everywhere. At dinner the first night in Borda. Sipping tea with the octogenarian from Switzerland in Foncebadón. Dropping her bag just as we were paying the check in O'Cebreiro.
We saw her in Burgos with a number of young pilgrims who had thought they were superhuman starting out and were now paying for their hubris. It was in a tapas place there that Maria introduced us to Anna. We had noticed Anna on the trail: she had a stride and a singular determination that made us think maybe she actually WAS superhuman.
Filling us in on everyone's maladies, Maria removed a bandage to show us a glowing red triangular patch of skin that resulted from some ointment she had used. I felt empowered to boast of my brave battle against blisters. Anna was having none of it. "Complain. Complain," she said. "All you have to do is put one foot in front of the other. How hard is that?"
Well, hold on. How hard is that? How HARD is that? Sometimes pretty darn hard. But I was NOT saying that to Anna. I licked my wounds and let it go.
But it is a good point to consider that the footwear you choose can go a long way to making it easier to take Anna's approach. The only advice I can give after having completed the Wainwright, the Portuguese Coastal and the Camino Francés is that if it feels right, go for it. My husband loves KEENs. I love Merrells. I felt compelled to wear hiking boots until I didn't. I had worried about ankle support, but when my feet were bothering me in Pamplona, I got some new Hokas and liked them.
When shin splints developed after a sprint through a thunderstorm (another story on that in the future), the physiotherapist whose brilliant ad "Do You Want to Walk into Santiago Pain Free?" had grabbed my attention, recommended I try Altras for their wide toe box. So far, so good. Going to try those on the next Camino.
Socks present a particular challenge. The bottoms of my feet get irritated--they feel a little on fire sometimes. I sometimes wonder if it's a headgame with me. As soon as I think I am going to walk over 20 kilometers in a day, my feet burn. Just like if I think no bathroom will be available, I have to go.
I have tried wool. I have tried double socks. I have tried socks with toes. I have tried countless options. And I am still looking for the perfect combo.
Of course you will want to come up with your best first shot at the right combo before you actually go. But if it turns out you aren't happy with your choice, I have found many of the outfitters along the way to be incredibly knowledgeable.
Beyond footwear, foot care matters. I don't start the day without Vaseline on my feet. And I have learned as soon as I feel a blister, I need to deal with it. I don't mean tomorrow morning. I don't mean after dinner. I mean sit down in the field and apply Compeed. I swear by it. And only it. No other.
Good chance your feet will hurt along the way no matter how friendly your shoes and socks are to them. In which case, you will have to resort to Anna's method: just put one foot in front of the other. How hard can it be?
--Ann